Fashion Week is back in full force, and there’s a lot to see. Blink (or scroll too fast on Instagram) and you’ll miss the details: tiny bags, tall shoes, feathered hats, leather capes and diamond dog collars. So as part of a new series, Wow Moment, we’ll spotlight things we saw on the runways that delighted or mystified us.
MILAN — Collaborations have dominated fashion for some time now, and there is a particular union that tends to succeed: cool luxury designers joining with classic accessories brands experiencing a cultural renaissance. Birkenstock has worked with Jil Sander and Proenza Schouler. Converse has collaborated with Rick Owens and Telfar. Dr. Martens has partnered with Off-White and Heaven by Marc Jacobs. And so on.
Leave it to MM6 Maison Margiela to release a new collaboration — its second with the backpack brand Eastpak — and mock the nature of collaborations at the same time. The diffusion line held its spring 2022 show at a cafe here on Thursday night, where it provided small, delightfully strange bites (like an egg that was actually solid white chocolate inside a hollowed-out real eggshell, on a menu titled Pleasures of the Pretentious Table) and big, delightfully strange clothes. It was court jester chic, with several variations of checkerboard prints and ruff-collar necklaces.
Of the handful of off-kilter backpacks and bags sent down the runway, one stood out: a flat white trompe-l’oeil style, about as wide as the model wearing it. (Eastpak calls this a poster backpack, after its rectangular shape; it made them in similar dimensions for a 2019 Raf Simons collaboration.) Printed on the bag is an image of a classic silver
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